We spent a few days in Chichicastenango in the department of El Quiche, northwest of Guatemala City in the highlands, elevation 6,447 feet. “Chichi” is 98% indigenous Maya K’iche, with 21% of the population speaking only K’iche and 71% bilingual K’iche and Spanish.

Chichi is known for its market day, which attracts sellers and buyers from across the region. It’s also known for the beautiful Santo Tomas cathedral, where Mayan ceremonies are welcomed along with Catholic worship. Santo Tomas is one of many Catholic churches in Guatemala where the faithful crawl on their knees to the altar, hands uplifted and praying, for reasons known to them and their God. To witness this practice is, for me, very moving, so much so that I incorporated it into one of the final scenes of my novel, Mother Mother.

We stayed in the lovely Hotel Santo Tomas, home to macaws and parrots who squawk “Hola!” and a wonderful collection of masks and carvings. When Olivia was almost two and her adoption was finally finished, Tim and I rented a car and set off as a new family to explore Totonicapan, Quetzaltenango, Panajachel and Chichi. Since that first visit, Chichi has captured our hearts.